The natural splendor requires defense! Select materials and techniques that are compatible with your timber.
Wood, the world’s oldest and most beloved construction material, is used to create some of the most exquisite furniture, cabinetry, and trim work. Without cover, though, most wood can swell, warp, or even rot when exposed to moisture and high humidity. Fortunately, there are several items available that preserve wood while preserving its natural beauty.
How to Protect Wood from Water
There are three foolproof methods for protecting the wood for years to come.
Build a delicate and protective hand-rubbed finish with linseed or tung oil.
Cover the wood with polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer to protect it.
Using a stain-sealant combination, you can finish and waterproof wood at the same time.
When determining the best solution for you, bear in mind that certain waterproofing approaches are better suited to interior or exterior pieces, while others are better suited to dark- or light-grained timber.
Continue reading below for complete information about each of the primary methods for waterproofing wood, can be used as best outdoor wood sealer!
METHOD 1: Create an oil finish with a warm, hand-rubbed appearance
Linseed oil, derived from flax seeds, and Tung oil, derived from the Chinese Tung tree, are the primary ingredients of almost all hand-rubbed (a.k.a. wiping) oil finishes.
These oils have been used for decades to enhance and preserve dark-grained woods such as walnut and mahogany, and they are still used today—with a few modifications. By combining the oils with other components, drying times are accelerated and stickiness is eliminated. You may buy pre-blended Tung oil and linseed oil items or create your own personalized blend for a unique finish. One part oil (either Tung or boiling linseed), one part mineral spirits, and one part polyurethane constitute a regular hand-rubbed oil mix.
How to apply for yours is as follows:
Apply with a natural bristle paintbrush to sanded and polished dark-grained wood. (If you’re waterproofing lighter-colored wood, such as pine or oak, avoid this process in favour of either of the above two; hand-rubbed oils appear to yellow with time.)
Allow the oil to absorb into the surface and reapply to any areas that seem to be dry.
Wipe away any remaining oil with clean, dried rags, rubbing vigorously to eliminate any excess.
Allow for full drying of the log. This process will take several hours or overnight, depending on the amount of oil in the mixture.
Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper.
Rep with as many additional coats as necessary to achieve the perfect finish.
Feel free to play with the recipe when you gain familiarity with oil-rubbed blends. Reduce the amount of mineral spirits for a thicker substance. Reduce the sum of polyurethane if you need additional operating time until the finish dries. Alternatively, apply additional poly for a glossier surface and a faster drying period. You will make an infinite number of exclusive blends!
METHOD 2: For the better defense, use sealants.
Polyurethane, varnish, and lacquer are also tried-and-true waterproofing sealants. They are rubbed or sprayed onto new, sanded wood and allowed to dry entirely before gently re-sanding and recoating the item.
Apply the finish in a “room temperature” setting with the optimal performance. Additionally, never shake or vigorously stir sealants prior to application; doing so will result in air bubbles that linger on the surface of the sealant long after it dries.
Although these sealants dry reasonably quickly (some in as little as 15 minutes), they often produce chemical solvents, necessitating ventilation during application.
The following are the advantages and disadvantages of the most popular forms of sealants:
Polyurethane sealants produce a variety of solvents in addition to acrylic and polyurethane resins, allowing you to pick your preferred finish effect—from a high-gloss shine to a delicate, soft sheen. Since modern polyurethanes do not yellow, they are an excellent alternative for light-toned woodland. While oil-based polyurethane is the most durable, it needs mineral spirits or turpentine to clean brushes. Cleanup is a breeze for water-based polyurethane.
Varnish is a mixture of paint, cleaner, and drying oil that creates a hard-shell surface that resists scratching and does not yellow. To protect wood that may be exposed to the elements, select a marine varnish that includes UV absorbers to ward off sun harm. Spar varnish is an excellent option for interior usage on end tables and coffee tables since it resists pesky cup circles. Brushes can be cleaned with turpentine or mineral spirits.
Lacquer is the preferred sealant for wood furniture. It is a combination of dissolved tree resin or synthetic resin in alcohol. Although lacquer can grow a yellowish tinge over time, which is considered unattractive on lighter woods, it brings out a rich, warm, and scratch-resistant finish on dark-toned wood. It comes with a range of sheens which can be diluted with lacquer thinner. Apply lacquer in several light coats for best performance. Nota bene: Since lacquer produces heavy gases, adequate ventilation is critical; operate outside or open windows and use fans.
METHOD 3: Use stain-sealant combinations quickly
When time is critical or you’re protecting a big job, such as a wood floor, use a high-quality stain-sealant combination. These two-in-one materials provide colour while still having water protection. Stain-sealant materials are made up of color pigments and binders that may be oil-, water-, or alkyd-based. The final effect may be translucent, opaque, or anywhere in between, depending on the pigment concentration in the product. If you add a stain-sealer to exterior wood, you can reapply it every year or two to maintain the wood’s safety.
With the exception of alkyd-based materials, stain-sealants do not build up on the wood surface; however, they soak in and evaporate the waste. Alkyd-based stain-sealants leave a thin surface layer on the wood, which makes them ideal for interior wood pieces such as exposed beams or rustic furniture that would not need additional treatments. Outside, alkyd-based stain-sealers have a propensity to peel if the wood is not fully dried and clean prior to application.